If asked to name the most romantic flower in the world, most of us would probably say the rose. But that wasn’t always the case. Until they were usurped by roses in the early 20th century, violets were the emblematic flower of Valentine’s Day, partly owing to their association with Saint Valentine himself, who supposedly wrote his final note in purple ink made from crushed violets before being executed. Napoleon prized them as a symbol of devotion to his beloved Joséphine, and the love potion in A Midsummer Night’s Dream was made from them. They’ve carried a lot of other meanings as well, which is precisely what Le Labo global brand president and creative director Deborah Royer sought to capture with Violette 30, an ethereal shape-shifting perfume that smells different on everyone. “The violet has been associated with purity as much as desire, introspection, as much as optimism,” she says. “We wanted to explore that complexity, using a familiar flower as a point of entry, then allowing it to unfold in a less expected way, leaving space for reinterpretation and rediscovery.” In other words, if you think you know what a violet perfume smells like, prepare to be surprised.
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Le Labo Violette 30
What’s the story behind Le Labo Violette 30?
Le Labo fragrances always spotlight a primary note with the number in the scent’s name indicating the total count of ingredients in the formula (think Santal 33, Thé Noir 29, etc.). In this case, the star is violet with a supporting cast of 29 other components. According to Royer, the brand selected a rare variety of white violet, “an elusive shade-seeking flower valued for its restraint and nuance. Here, its cool transparency is balanced by soft green florals, white tea, cedarwood, and guaiac wood.” Like all Le Labo scents, Violette 30 is hand-blended when you buy it, and you can select a custom-printed and -dated label (February 14, maybe?).
What does Violette 30 smell like?
There’s an old-book quality the first few minutes after you spray Violette 30 on skin. The scent is earthy and dry, like the pages of a crumbling paperback or just-raked leaves. Then the violet scent begins to transform. This is not an artificial-smelling candy-shop violet; there’s nothing sweet or old-fashioned about it. It’s more like smelling the flower in its natural environment along with its leaves, roots, and the soil it grows in. As the perfume evolves on skin, it becomes softer, warmer, and woodier. The overall effect is very grounding: the olfactive equivalent of lying down on the forest floor in springtime and taking a deep breath. Sounds pretty good right now, doesn’t it?
Is Violette 30 a seasonal scent?
Violette 30 is perfect for February because the flower it is based on is so inherently romantic and because it offers a glimmer of much-needed nature in the midst of winter. But its airiness and subtlety mean it could easily be worn in any season. While it lasts for several hours after you spray it on, don’t expect it to be a big statement-making perfume — Violette 30 feels intimate and discreet, which makes it ideal for the office or any potential perfume-averse crowd. Best of all, as a nontraditional floral that becomes distinctly woody as it dries, it is truly unisex. As Royer says, “It’s luminous, but never static, and able to shift with the wearer.” Violet is a bubbling-up trend in fragrance, so you can expect to smell it in a lot more perfumes this year. But this is probably the coolest, most interesting way to wear it.
More sexy violet scents to consider:
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Nostalgic vanity-table glamour writ large: Insolence smells like your mother’s lipstick and powder in the best imaginable way. An OTT violet that leaves a gorgeous trail. And that bottle!
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If you spilled violet perfume inside a Birkin, this is what it would smell like. Leathery, musky, softly floral, and decadently ultraluxe.
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Fruity top notes of pear, mandarin, and peach give the violet at Palatine’s heart a fresh, juicy effect. An elegant and super-feminine scent.
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A winner for the name alone. This is a unisex violet that skews masculine with smoky leather and patchouli notes that give it bad-boy-in-a-dive-bar vibes.
